Kalaupapa
National Historical Park
These are words with universal meanings, and at Kalaupapa these words describe human experiences, both past and present. Family refers to blood families torn apart by the physical removal of a parent or a child, as well as extended families created through bonding and support for survival. Community refers to the sense of "specialness" that residents of Kalaupapa feel about each other and about the place where they have chosen to live out their lives. Dignity refers to how Kalaupapa residents expect to be treated, and how they carry themselves in the face of societal attitudes towards a frightening illness, Hansen's disease, also known as leprosy. Two tragedies occurred on the Kalaupapa Peninsula on the north shore of the island of Moloka`i; the first was the removal of indigenous peoples in 1865 and 1895, the second was the forced isolation of sick people to this remote place from 1866 until 1969. The removal of Native Hawaiians from where they had lived for 900 years cut the cultural ties and associations of generations of people with the `aina (land). The establishment of an isolation settlement, first at Kalawao and then at Kalaupapa, tore apart Hawaiian society as the kingdom, and subsequently, the territory of Hawai`i tried to control a feared disease. The impact of broken connections with the `aina and of family members "lost" to Kalaupapa are still felt in Hawai`i today. Kalaupapa National Historical Park, established in 1980, contains the physical setting for these stories. Within its boundaries are the historic Hansen's disease settlements of Kalaupapa and Kalawao. The community of Kalaupapa, on the leeward side of Kalaupapa Peninsula, is still home for many surviving Hansen's disease patients, whose memories and experiences are cherished values. In Kalawao on the windward side of the peninsula are the churches of Siloama, established in 1866, and Saint Philomena, associated with the work of Father Damien (Joseph De Veuster). The park contains the Kalaupapa Peninsula, adjacent cliffs and valleys, and submerged lands and waters out to 1/4 mile from shore. Hawaiian people inhabited the peninsula and valleys for hundreds of years prior to the establishment of the isolation settlement at Kalawao in 1866. Evidence of this occupation in four ahupua`a (historic Hawaiian land divisions) on the peninsula and in valleys is relatively undisturbed and represents one of the richest archeological preserves in Hawai`i. The Moloka`i Lighthouse, opened in 1909 and standing on the northern tip of the peninsula, is the tallest US lighthouse in the Pacific Ocean. It guides ocean vessels past Moloka`i and into Honolulu Harbor on O`ahu. Spectacular north shore sea cliffs, narrow valleys, a volcanic crater, rain forest, lava tubes and caves, and off-shore islands and waters are in the naational park. Several of these areas provide rare native habitat for threatened or endangered Hawaiian plants and animals. For example, Hawaiian monk seal pups have been born on Kalaupapa's beaches. These endangered mammals require solitude; Kalaupapa's physical isolation provides perfect habitat to support these births and subsequent care. The park is within the Kalaupapa Leprosy Settlement, listed on the National Register of Historic Places as a national historic landmark. A section of the park is included within the North Shore Cliffs National Natural Landmark. The Moloka`i Lighthouse is listed separately on the national register. Interaction with residents, physical isolation, scenic beauty, and the brilliant night sky contribute to memorable visitor experiences at Kalaupapa National Historical Park. There are three types of visitation at the park: those who view the peninsula from the overlook, visitors who tour historic Kalaupapa and Kalawao through a commercial tour, and guests of residents. Guests of residents may stay overnight in visitor quarters or in private homes. They may travel beyond the boundaries of the Kalaupapa settlement if their sponsor accompanies them. Organized groups of volunteers come to Kalaupapa throughout the year on service trips. They work on natural and cultural resource protection projects in the settlement and in the park. One park purpose is to protect the lifestyle and individual privacy of the Hansen's disease patients, so there are several restrictions for all visitors at Kalaupapa. These include, but are not limited to: permission required to enter the settlement, no children under the age of 16, no photographs of patients without their written permission, no pets, no camping, no hunting or firearms, no diving tanks, and pole fishing only. The mule rides are arranged through Moloka`i Mule Rides, Inc., a National Park Service concession (808-567-6088 or 1-800-567-7550). Damien Tours, owned and operated by a Kalaupapa resident, offers the commercial tour of Kalaupapa (808-567-6171).
PO Box 2222
Kalaupapa, HI 96742
Located on highway 470 at the four-mile marker, this site features the restored 1878 R.W. Meyer Sugar Mill with its mule-driven cane crusher and operational steam engine. The cultural center has changing displays and artifacts. Tours are offered Monday through Saturday for a nominal fee. Rudolph W. Meyer, a German sugar planter and rancher who came to Moloka`i in 1848, lived over the cliff from Kalawao at Kala`e. He served as the isolation settlement's supervisor from 1866 until his death in 1897.
For more information: Moloka`i Museum & Cultural Center, P.O. Box 986, Kaunakakai, HI, 96742 (808-567-6436 or 808-567-6624)
Located at the end of highway 470, about 10 miles northwest of Kaunakakai, Pala`au State Park is a 233-acre heavily wooded park sitting at an elevation of 1,600 feet. It is on the edge of steep cliffs that drop to the ocean on the north shore of the island. The park has a campground for tents in an ironwood and eucalyptus grove, and a large, covered picnic pavilion. An excellent view of the Makanalua peninsula can be seen from an overlook at the edge of the cliffs. Wayside exhibits at the overlook interpret park themes.
For more information and permits: Division of State Parks, P.O. Box 1049, Wailuku, HI 96793 (808-244-4354)
Kamakou Preserve has 2,774 acres containing native rain forest and shrublands. In these remote forests live native forest birds, along with several hundred species of plants, insects, and land snails found only in Hawai`i. Monthly guided hikes are available but are usually booked several months in advance. A four-wheel drive vehicle is needed to reach the preserve.
Mo`omomi Preserve has 921 acres on the northwest coast. Windswept dunes shelter six globally imperiled plant species, and the endangered Hawaiian green sea turtle nests in the preserve. There are also important sites for Hawaiian prehistory, paleontology, and geology. Monthly guided hikes are available but are usually booked several months in advance.
Pelekunu Preserve has 5,714 acres on the rugged north shore. Accessible only on foot or by boat, the valley's remoteness has protected its lowland rain forests, verdant sea cliffs, and one of Hawai`i's last remaining free-flowing streams. For safety reasons, the Conservancy does not encourage public access to this preserve.
For more information: The Nature Conservancy, Moloka`i Preserves, P.O. Box 220, Kualapu`u, HI 96757 (808-553-5236)
Our URL is: http://www.nps.gov/kala/index.htm